Книги по ювелирному искусству

For centuries, the stories of the world’s great jewellery collections have lain hidden within the archives of Christie’s, the celebrated auctioneers. From the tragic European queens, Mary, Queen of Scots and Marie Antoinette – both beheaded – to Hollywood royalty such as Elizabeth Taylor, the vaults sparkle with the most celebrated (and occasionally notorious) names of the last 250 years. Following on from the success of his books on Boucheron: The Secret Archives, Van Cleef & Arpels: Treasures and Legends and Mellerio: Jewellers to the Queens of Europe, author Vincent Meylan explores these remarkable jewellery archives, revealing the mysteries within for the first time.

Each sale had its intrigue, each its story to tell. The first auction of jewellery from the British royal family took place at Christie’s in 1773, after the death of the Princess of Wales, mother of George III. As the archives reveal, in the subsequent centuries, Christie’s has been party to the sale of jewellery by several further generations of British royals, from Lady Patricia Ramsay and the Countess of Southesk through to Princess Margaret, Countess of Snowdon. And, in the wake of revolution and regicide further afield, the crown jewels of France, Russia, Bavaria, Serbia, Egypt, India and Spain were all sold at Christie’s. Aside from Elizabeth Taylor, the legendary movie star collections of Merle Oberon and Gloria Swanson are also revealed here, as well as the most famous pearls and diamonds in the world; each explored within the context of their owners’ remarkable lives.

Expertly curating the extensive archives, Vincent Meylan has drawn out the key details of each momentous sale. Original documents from the vaults are reproduced in the book, alongside hundreds of colour illustrations of the jewels and their owners.

About the Author:

Vincent Meylan is a specialist in precious stones and high jewellery, and the author of several biographies and works on the history of precious stones, including Queens' Jewels (Assouline, 2005), Boucheron: The Secret Archives ISBN 9781851496679 (ACC, 2011), and of Van Cleef & Arpels: Treasures and Legends ISBN 9781851497706 (ACC, 2014).

The first comprehensive book on jewelry as an art form showcases a collection of today's most exclusive jewelers

When does jewelry transcend the category of fashion accessory to become art? Coveted provides a vital survey of the field, profiling more than 70 of the most prominent designers working across the globe today. In thematic chapters featuring exceptional pieces from each artist's extraordinary oeuvre, the book explores their conceptual approach, provenance of materials, quality of design, composition, and workmanship, revealing what makes these creations not only coveted objects of exceptional value but also works of art.

About the Author:

Melanie Grant is a journalist who works at the Economist. She has also worked at the BBC, the Financial Times, The Times and the Independent, amongst others. She is luxury editor of the Economist's sister publication 1843, for which she writes, styles, and commissions, editing an annual jewelry supplement. Grant speaks regularly on watches and jewelry at events and prestigious venues.

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• An entrée into a rarified world, whose practitioners produce very limited pieces, sold through prestige art fairs including Art Basel, TEFAF, and Maastricht
• Includes a global line-up of designers from China and India, to the UK, France and the US, including Bvlgari, Wallace Chan and Hemmerle
• Features stunning illustrations and photography, including never-before-seen imagery
• High-end art jewelry has a broad global appeal with passionate consumers and a global market value of 388 billion US$
• Thematic chapters chart the emergence of a new kind of jewelry and artist in relation to ideas of modernism, globalization, design, and feminism
• Luxury pearlescent paper cover with foil-stamping

A lavishly illustrated, in-depth early history covering two thousand years of diamond jewellery and commerce, from the Indian mines to European merchants, courts, and workshops

This richly illustrated history of diamonds illuminates myriad facets of the “king of gems,” including a cast of larger-than-life characters such as Alexander the Great, the Mughal emperor Jahangir, and East India Company adventurers. It’s an in-depth study tracing the story of diamonds from their early mining and trade more than two thousand years ago to the 1700s when Brazil displaced India as the world’s primary diamond supplier.

Jack Ogden, a historian and gemologist specializing in ancient gems and jewellery, describes the early history of diamond jewellery, the development of diamond cutting, and how diamonds were assessed and valued. The book includes more than one hundred captivating images, from close-up full-colour photographs of historic diamond-set jewellery (some previously unpublished) to photomicrographs of individual gems and illustrations of medieval manuscripts, as well as diagrams depicting historical methods of cutting and polishing diamonds.

About the Author:

Jack Ogden is a historian specializing in gems and jewellery. He has a Ph.D. from Durham University and is an elected Fellow of both the Society of Antiquaries and the Gemmological Association of Great Britain.

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Пролистать книгу Diamonds: An Early History of the King of Gems

Discover the dazzling treasures of one of the world’s most prominent jewelry collectors, hailed by Forbes as “the man with the most valuable jewelry collection you never knew existed.”

This volume illuminates the vision of Kazumi Arikawa, a Japanese collector and the founder and president of Albion Art. Throughout his career, he has pursued the world’s most dazzling gems, acquiring rare pieces from all eras with incomparable artistic and historical value, including an important number of royal jewels from across Europe and the largest collection of historical tiaras.

For Kazumi Arikawa, who spent several years as a Buddhist monk, jewelry art is a spiritual journey — an exaltation of emotions and a celebration of universal beauty, which he has made his mission to spread across the world through publications and exhibitions. In Japanese culture, this veneration of beauty is closely linked to the purity of the soul.

Featuring a catalog of works curated by acclaimed jewelry historian Diana Scarisbrick, as well as all-new photography by Nils Herrmann, this volume presents for the first time 250 treasured pieces that have passed through the skilled hands of this unique collector, including a selection of masterpieces now held in the Qatar Museums collections.

About the Author:

Kazumi Arikawa is the founder and president of Albion Art. Diana Scarisbrick is an art historian specializing in glyptics and jewelry. She has curated major exhibitions on jewelry history, including Tiara (Museum of Fine Arts Boston, 2000), and is the renowned author of numerous books on jewelry and art. Nils Herrmann is a German photographer specializing in fine jewelry and design.

The first book celebrating Dolce & Gabbana Alta Gioielleria, a kaleidoscope of creativity in which formal invention is accompanied by rediscovery of historical Italian craftsmanship.

Dolce & Gabbana Alta Gioielleria (High Jewelry) inaugurated its first collection in Taormina in 2012. Ten years after that memorable date, the fashion house has decided to celebrate this precious universe of art, beauty, and knowledge in a book for the first time.

The creations of Dolce & Gabbana Alta Gioielleria have always been unique pieces. While the exceptional quality of gems and diamonds is certified by the most renowned international gemological institutes, the goldsmithery — which is carried out entirely by hand in the brand’s workshops by skilled goldsmiths — reinterprets highly refined processes, such as milgrain, filigree, and twisted wire.

It embodies an extraordinary heritage of tradition and know-how, forging material to transform it into a work of art. Miniatures, enamels, corals, and marvelous gems from the most important deposits in the world and magnificent diamonds, some of which are characterized by the unprecedented Dolce & Gabbana cut, are the absolute stars of this volume. Edited by Carol Woolton, it reveals the unique creations of Dolce & Gabbana Alta Gioielleria to the general public for the first time.

About the Author:

Carol Woolton is a global industry leader in the luxury sector, a contributing editor at British Vogue, and host of the podcast If Jewels Could Talk. As a jewelry historian, she has curated exhibitions internationally. 

Fabergé: Treasures of Imperial Russia. Fabergé Museum, St. Petersburg is a lavish volume on the most complete Fabergé collection in the world, with many pieces rarely seen before, from the famous imperial Easter eggs to precious jewelry, enamels, and Russian silver, showcased in the sumptuous Shuvalov Palace in St. Petersburg, Russia.

Jeweler and goldsmith Carl Fabergé and his firm are renowned for creating the most superbly refined objects of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries for the nobility and aristocracy of imperial Russia. Exquisite examples of the jeweler’s art, Fabergé’s magnificent Easter eggs, commissioned for the Romanov Imperial family, and other impeccably crafted objects continue to be prized the world over for their incredible craftsmanship and unparalleled beauty.

Now, the Fabergé Museum in St. Petersburg has gathered the most spectacular and comprehensive treasury of Fabergé objects. This book showcases a wealth of precious objects — from the imperial eggs, delicate jeweled enamel clocks, and picture frames to animals carved out of hardstone and gem-encrusted jewelry and presentation boxes.

With all-new photography of the collection — more than 500 priceless objects in all — alongside stunning images of the majestic Shuvalov Palace, this luxurious volume is a celebration of the exquisite beauty and craftsmanship of prerevolutionary Russia and its heritage.

About the Author:

Written by internationally known authors and leading experts: Géza von Habsburg, Tatiana Muntian, Valentin Skurlov, Ulla Tillander-Godenhielm, Kieran McCarthy, Mark Schaffer, Irina Buseva-Davydova, Alexander von Solodkoff, and Ekaterina Khmelnitskaya.

A glorious selection of jewellery based on the human figure, all in the holdings of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris

Following on from Flora and Fauna, this is the third book in a series devoted to the splendid jewellery collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. The theme this time is the human figure. It begins in the Byzantine era and ranges through the medieval and Renaissance periods and beyond to the 19th century when Lalique, Fouquet and the Maison Vever produced pieces that were the embodiment of elegant sophistication, and into the 20th, when artists such as Picasso and Giacometti joined forces with jewelers like Jean Lurçat and Line Vautrin. Figures & Faces is packed with striking and witty works of art that will charm all lovers of jewellery.

Contents List:

• Introduction
• Two essays by Évelyne Possémé and Patrick Mauriès
• The jewellery

About the Authors:

Patrick Mauriès is a writer and publisher of many notable titles on fashion and design, including Jewelry by Chanel, A Cabinet of Rarities, The World According to Karl and Fashion Quotes to name a few, all published by Thames & Hudson.
Évelyne Possémé is chief curator at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris.

A privileged look at visionary jewelry designer Francesca Amfitheatrof’s unique approach to creating collections of high jewelry for Louis Vuitton.

Working in the heart of Paris, Francesca Amfitheatrof brings a new perspective to the ancient art of jewelry design, translating her love of fashion into the jewelry collections she creates for Louis Vuitton. She approaches each collection following a theme, as a storyteller would approach a novel, but written in the oldest materials on our planet—diamonds and gold.

This book is a fascinating look at four extraordinary jewelry collections, exploring the designer’s alchemical process from raw materials and inspiration to polished jewel. Journal-like in style, and featuring unique sketches, gouaches, collages, and personal photographs the book highlights how Amfitheatrof and Louis Vuitton have given the ancient craft of jewelry-making a modern approach. The book also reveals how Amfitheatrof’s personal journey, and her creativity, are perfectly matched with the pioneering and visionary spirit of Louis Vuitton, a house with its roots in luggage and travel. Amfitheatrof, working together with renowned art director Fabien Baron, has created a stunning and highly personal volume that beautifully reflects her singular artistry, within a unique and luxurious package that features a ribbon tie closure and vellum inserts.

About the Author:

Stefania Amfitheatrof is a New York-based multilingual luxury and branding specialist with a focus on creating compelling storytelling. She is currently working on her first novel.

Cate Blanchett is a two-time Academy Award-winning actress. She recently won a Golden Globe for Best Actress for her performance in Tár (2022).

Francesca Amfitheatrof is Artistic Director of Jewelry and Watches at Louis Vuitton — the first person to be given this role at the fashion house. Prior to her appointment at Louis Vuitton she was the first ever female design director of Tiffany & Co. from 2014 to 2018, and created jewelry for brands including Marni, Fendi, and Chanel.

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Пролистать книгу Francesca Amfitheatrof: Fantastical Jewels  на сайте издательства.

The story of Maison FRED is the tale of a truly distinguished gentleman who — as a young man richly endowed with natural talents — believed that, for him, nothing was impossible.

In 1936, Fred Samuel opened his first boutique at 6 Rue Royale in Paris, where he brought a fresh and dynamic spirit to his jewellery designs, reflecting the brilliant sunlight of Argentina, his birthplace and childhood home. From the iconic Force 10 bracelet to the Pretty Woman collection, his heritage has imbued the Maison with a unique personality, setting it apart from all competitors.

Forming part of an ambitious project to shape the legacy of Maison FRED, a distinctively French creator of precious jewellery, this book is a family history, a celebration of extraordinary jewels and, above all, a tribute to Maison FRED’s founder, whose values and spirit continue to inspire contemporary jewellers. Drawing on numerous archival documents, gouache design studies, and splendid examples of precious jewels, this volume depicts the full scope of a rich and living heritage, the embodiment and source of inventiveness for the young generations and the creators of today and tomorrow.

About the Author:

Historian and journalist Vincent Meylan is a renowned specialist in high jewellery. He is the author of several biographies and works devoted to the history of gems.

Vever’s La Bijouterie Française au XIXem Siècle was first published in France between 1906–08: it has been the bible of all jewellery experts, buyers, sellers, scholars and historians ever since. Only 1,000 copies were originally produced, and it has been out of print for many years, appearing only rarely in the auction houses where it fetches very large sums.

This volume – the first-ever complete translation into English – includes over 1400 illustrations: photographs, sketches for jewels and prints from fashion magazines. 136 colour photographs of jewels now in the Musée des Arts Decoratifs are new to this edition.

All the great and now more obscure jewellers are included in the text and illustrations: Alphonse Fouquet, Boucheron, Falize, Froment-Maurice, Cartier, Chaumet, Georges Fouquet, Gaillard, Vever, Lalique, and many many more.

The discussion in the text is not only of the individual jewels and types of jewellery but also includes many entertaining anecdotes about the jewellers' relations with their customers and with society in general. Being himself a jeweller, Henri Vever was able to talk personally with all the people he writes about (or their followers), so the book has an unusual degree of authority.

Did you know that jewellery predates clothes? The oldest known piece is a set of 100, 000-year-old beads, made from Nassarius shells.

Liza Urla advises us not to look at the eyes when meeting a new person, but instead to look at their jewellery. She describes it as the ultimate means of self-expression, essential to our identification as humans. “Jewellery is our armour,” she says, “and precious stones our amulets”. In this book, she journeys from continent to continent, chronicling the pieces that capture her imagination and her heart.

Although many of the pictures are from the street, defining the wearer’s style on the day they were taken, Urla has been lucky enough to access people’s personal jewellery boxes. As she says, the best pieces are always in private collections. Urla’s favourite finds are presented alongside her own jewellery styling, in collaboration with various designers from the jungles of Brazil, the beaches of Mexico, or the streets of London, NYC, Paris or Moscow.

- A colourful collection of photographs from GEMOLOGUE by Liza Urla, a leading and much-loved jewellery blog and winner of the Best Blog in the Fashion category at the UK Best Blog Awards 2015
- Liza Urla is considered to be the first jewellery influencer in the world: she started her highly successful award-winning jewellery blog, GEMOLOGUE.com, back in 2009 and since then has worked with countless jewellery brands such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Chanel, Bulgari, Faberge, Buccellati among others and has gained more than 300,000 followers
- Combines 'street-style' pictures with Urla's professional styling creations, developed in collaboration with designers from all over the world
- Inspirational and eye-catching photographs will be of interest to jewellery enthusiasts from all over the world

About the Author:

Liza Urla is a jewellery expert, influencer, stylist and creative muse. She devotes her time to the things that inspire her: living and travelling all over the world, consulting on fine jewellery, art directing editorials and working as a contributor for Vogue and Harper's Bazaar. Initially, Urla wanted to take photographs of jewellery worn by strangers she met on her globetrotting adventures. However, the project grew, and she founded GEMOLOGUE in 2009 to showcase her incredible archive. She takes her followers on her personal jewellery journey, curating her favourite pieces from prestigious events, trade shows and boutiques all over the world. Her jewellery influence has been acknowledged by Financial Times, Vogue and Harper's Bazaar.

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Пролистать книгу Gemologue: Street Jewellery Styles & Styling Tips

Following the success of The Empire of Death, which has attracted a global cult following, Heavenly Bodies brings the 'catacomb saints' out of the darkness for the first time

In 1578 a labyrinth of underground burials was discovered in Rome that contained the remains of thousands of individuals assumed to be early Christian martyrs. The bones were disinterred and sent to many Catholic churches and religious houses in German-speaking Europe to replace holy relics that had been destroyed during the Protestant Reformation.

Reassembled by skilled artisans, encrusted with gold and jewels and richly dressed in fantastic costumes, the skeletons were displayed in elaborate public shrines as reminders of the spiritual treasures that awaited the faithful after death. For nearly three centuries these ‘Heavenly Bodies’ were venerated as miracle-workers and protectors of their communities until doubts about their authenticity surfaced in the modern era. They then became a source of embarrassment for the Church and most were destroyed or hidden away.

The book includes arresting images of more than seventy spectacular jeweled skeletons and the fascinating stories of dozens more, accompanied by rare archive material. This is the first time that some of these incredible relics – both intriguing historical artifacts and masterpieces of artistic craftsmanship in their own right – have appeared in a publication, with Koudounaris gaining unprecedented access to photograph in some of the most secretive religious establishments in Europe.

Meticulously researched and beautifully written, this is a tour de force of original cultural history with deepest resonances for a modern audience fascinated by visual representations of death.

Paul Koudounaris lives in Los Angeles, where he took his doctorate in the art history department of UCLA. His first book, The Empire of Death: A Cultural History of Ossuaries and Charnel Houses, was published by Thames & Hudson in 2011.

A dazzling showcase of portable luxury for the Jazz Age: bejeweled vanity and cigarette cases, compacts, match boxes, watches, desk clocks, photography frames and more

One Christmas Eve, Prince Sanruddin Aga Khan gave to his wife a magnificent jeweled box made by Cartier in the 1930s. So began the making of perhaps the most remarkable jewelry collection of a remarkable era for jewelry – and for French jewelry in particular.

In the 1920s and 1930s, smoky night clubs, cocktails, a new acceptance of make up beyond the boudoir, décor for smart apartments and dinner tables, provided a new landscape for the designs of the great jewelry houses of Europe, with Paris as the superstar of cities. The gloom of war was replaced either by an explosion of coloured gemstones and enamel, with bold colour codes of blue, green and orange, or by the simplicity of black, white and gold as risqué black became newly chic. Zen rock gardens, Chinese dragons, Persian birds, Japanese plum blossom or Tutankhamun motifs provided the richest source of global influences in a triumph of hedonistic creativity. How this new world developed, the tastes and skills of its decorative shapers – above all, Cartier – the process of design and making, the rules of feminine elegance are explored by expert authors, with detailed descriptions of over 100 objects by Sarah Davis accompanying them, in a parade of the finest from the single most popular era for all those interested in jewelry and the decorative arts.

About the Authors:

Princess Catherine Aga Khan is wife of the late Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan.

Pierre Rainero is Image, Style and Heritage Director of Cartier.

The volume presents an extraordinary collection of jewels, jewellers and international maisons which, from the start of the twentieth century to the present day, have mirrored the changing taste worldwide. 

It is a global journey which takes us from France to Russia, from the United States to Italy, from Britain to Germany and from the Netherlands to Scandinavia. From the Art Nouveau masterpieces of Lalique, Vever and Fouquet to Art Deco elegance and the wonders of Cartier, Boucheron, Tiffany, Mario Buccellati and Fabergé. From the inventions of Van Cleef & Arpels and Bulgari in the 1950s to the Dutch avant-garde and the artist’s jewel of the 1960s, ending with illustrations of up-to-date and contemporary jewellery design. A brilliant historical-critical essay introduces a magnificent selection of pictures, designed to be an ideal gallery of masterpieces of twentieth-century jewellery, accompanied by technical explanations and an exhaustive glossary.

The book closes with the new millennium, with the intermingling of art and design and the introduction of new goldsmithery techniques like 3D printing and wearable technologies but also new creative, production, distribution and communication processes thanks to Internet open sources which are defining new future scenarios in jewellery design.

A brilliant historical-critical essay introduces a magnificent selection of pictures, designed to be an ideal gallery of jewellery masterpieces from the twentieth century to the present, accompanied by technical explanations and an exhaustive glossary.

With more than 350 illustrations, Jewelry from Nature is a fresh, sensitive look at natural materials magically transformed by masters of fine jewelry.

The vast range of materials is impressive: coral, amber, horn, ivory, shells, pearls, wood, tortoiseshell, and such exotica as feathers, shagreen and bog oak – with origins from all over Europe, Asia, North and South America, Africa and the Far East. Their beauty often belies their age – amber (65 million years old) and mammoth ivory (10,000 years old).

Here, lavishly displayed, are superb works made by the world’s finest jewelers of the past two hundred years. Every major jeweler has created pieces of exceptional beauty, importance and style: Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, JAR, Cartier (their 
Art Deco coral bangles are icons of the period), Tiffany, Boivin, Verdura (whose seashell brooches studded with fine stones have long been collectors’ items), David Webb, Schlumberger, Lalique (whose name enbodies the best in Art Nouveau), Suzanne Belperron and Hermès.

Scores of modern designers are also featured (Andrew Grima, John Donald, Noma Copley) as well as artists today such as Patricia Von Musulin, Ted Muehling and Liv Blåvarp, whose exquisite objects show great respect for natural materials.

Including masses of information, each chapter explores the inspiration of a different material, with special profiles on designers, themes, or style icons such as Princess Grace of Monaco, Chanel and the Duchess of Windsor.