Книги по дизайну ювелирных изделий

Jewelry was one of the purest, and most successful, expressions of Art Nouveau style, using sensuous organic forms to create a vast range of objects of exceptional beauty and inventiveness. Leading expert Vivienne Becker provides an account of the movement that spread through Europe and the United States, acquiring different decorative characteristics in England, Germany, Austria, Belgium, Russia and Spain.

For the collector, comprehensive biographies on more than 300 designers are included, followed by a guide to identification, with over 200 makers’ marks and signatures. Each part of the book is richly illustrated with plate sections of dramatic illustrations, from the sinuous elegance of the French masters - Vever, Lalique and Fouquet - to the linear, geometric designs of the Viennese - Josef Hoffmann and Koloman Moser.

456 illustrations, 156 in colour, 214 makers' marks

The bulk of this handbook is step-by-step case studies, comprehensively explained and illustrated with photographs. Each chapter demonstrates and guides the reader through procedures for making a bangle or bracelet using a particular technique, approach or skill. Topics covered include: wax-work (casting), chain making, wire work, found objects,
piercing, stone-setting.

Designed to appeal to both beginners and practising jewellers, there is an introductory chapter on basic techniques, covering the fundamentals of jewellery-making, complete with detailed explanations and photographs. Each chapter includes a generous garnish of relevant 'tips and tricks' - useful hints from the author and other experienced jewellers.

For 500 years, the world's greatest makers of costume jewelry have hidden, anonymous, in the heart of Europe: Gablonz, Bohemia. This groundbreaking, beautiful book exposes the jewels, craftsmanship, technological development, and history of Bohemia. Almost 400 gorgeous color photographs illustrate the area's artistry, its most significant designers and manufacturers and their contributions to the art of jewelry, button, and bead making. Bohemian glass dynasties lasted for centuries, until the middle of the 20th century, when the entire community of German-stock craftsmen was expelled from the area in the turbulence of World War II. Though Gablonz will forever feel the loss of these great craftsmen, their artistry has been meticulously researched and documented by Sibylle Jargstorf for this book.

Victoire de Castellane, the designer of Dior Joaillerie, presents her collection of Fine Jewellery on the Belladone Island – an imaginary island conducive to the growth of Belladonna, a toxic plant whose essence was used as eye drops by Italian women during the Renaissance to dilate their pupils – dilated pupils being one of the signs of sexual arousal. The plant kingdom inspired the names of the jewels in their collection, plants which were part of the imaginary ancestral herbarium and reminiscent of the magic formulas of bewitching elixirs – Reina Magnifica Sangria, Poisono Misterius Spinella, Fleuro Poisonus Spinella, Paradisea Coeur Secretus, Carnivora Fluora Eternita, Dracula Spinella Devorus, Grani Opalia Devorus, Carnivo Papidevorus, Ancolia Veneinosa Pop. Each one of the 17 pieces describes the world in its own fashion, recounts a story, which secretly imbibes itself with that of the person wearing it.

In this collection, the imagination of Victoire de Castellane, freed from the shackles of convention, unleashes itself and proves its audacity. The first part of the book, designed to represent the extravagant nature of this collection as accurately as possible, is generously illustrated by Guido Mocafico’s photographs. The second part also shows the various phases involved in unveiling this collection, starting from the building of a lotus-like structure in the virtual sphere on Second Life, until the actual presentation in the hall Nymphéas de Monet at the musée de l’Orangerie.

A fully illustrated book featuring unique jewellery masterpieces, paying attention to the creators, designers and manufacturers

This book starts from those periods in history (18th and 19th centuries) when the concept of costume jewellery, which is considered to be something that puts the finishing touches on fashion, did not as yet exist. The custom in the past was to make copies of real jewels with precious or semi-precious materials; moreover, great effort was made to invent material to replace precious stones and gold (strass, marcasite, pinchbeck, pomponne, etc.)

The volume ends with an attempt to define the styles of the decades close to the contemporary period - as yet never examined - with particular interest in the '60s,'70s,'80s and '90s and in the names of creators, designers and manufacturers who are still unknown to us.

Contents:
The Different Types of Costume Jewellery: Definitions
Imitation Jewellery, Bijoux de Couture, Costume Jewellery, Fashion Jewellery.

Major Technological Innovations
Paste/Rhinestone, Gold Alloys and Similar, Steel Jewellery, The Brilliant Cut, Marcasite Stones, The Mechanised Production of Costume Jewellery, Berlin Iron Ornaments, Electro-galvanic Gold, Plating, Hair Jewellery, Daniel Swarovski and the Mechanised Finishing of Rhinestones, Ivory, Tortoiseshell, Amber, Coral, Mother-of-pearl, Rock Crystal, Horn.

Styles
Victorian Jewellery, Edwardian Costume Jewellery, The Costume Jewellery of Avant-garde Artistic Movements, Art Deco Costume Jewellery, Costume Jewellery of the 1930s, Costume Jewellery of the 1940s (Cocktail style), Costume Jewellery of the 1950s, Costume Jewellery of the 1960s, Costume Jewellery of the 1970s, Costume Jewellery of the 1980s, Costume Jewellery of the 1990s.

About the Author:

Deanna Farneti Cera, an international expert on European and American costume jewellery, lives and works in Milan. She is an author, a leading researcher in the history of jewellery in fashion, and has curated exhibitions for several museums worldwide. In 2006, she opened the gallery Ornamento d'Autore in Milan, whose programmes include historical exhibitions on the history of costume jewellery and others on international trends in the field

Tells the fabulous story of the founder of this famous and respected Parisian jeweller as well as the tales of passion, crime and intrigue of his famous and infamous client.

The House of Boucheron represents one of the great Parisian jewellers of the last 150 years. Founder, Frederic Boucheron opened his first shop in 1858. Many of his clients were not women of society, but femmes fatales of the demi-monde. Nonetheless, his skill with precious stones and his absolute discretion made him a favourite of both courtesans and princes. In turn, his business flourished allowing him to move to the famous Place Vendome in 1892. Having been given unprecedented access to the Boucheron vaults, the book's author, Vincent Meylan, made some remarkable discoveries. Perhaps the most significant was a register labelled 'Book of Stones'. It is a record of all the precious stones that have entered Boucheron's stock; diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, rubies and pearls are all indexed according to weight, price and, most importantly, who bought and sold them. Meylan also uncovered almost 200 order books and 150 letters. It is these 'Secret Archives' that have enabled him to reveal the fascinating history of Boucheron and his extraordinary, colourful clientele.

From the 'Ladies of Sin' to the 'King and Queens of the World' Meylan reveals the riveting stories behind the jewels that the Parisian jeweller sold; the desires they aroused, the madness they provoked, the love they formalised, and the deaths they caused. Boucheron's clients included Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, La Belle Otero, King Farouk of Egypt, and the Shah of Iran. The demands of these wealthy individuals led to the sensational orders that elevated Boucheron to the highest level of creativity. This captivating and revealing publication includes original design sketches, black and white archive images and sumptuous colour photographs of the exquisite Boucheron creations, including Tsarina Alexandra's pearl and diamond coronet and The Queen Mother's tiara.

Vincent Meylan is responsible for the 'history and royalty' pages in Point de Vue. He is also a specialist in precious stones and in 'haute joaillerie'. He is the author of several biographies and of Queens' Jewels

Whenever one watches the Us Secretary of State Madeleine Albright on TV, one cannot but notice her extravagant jewellery. Few people realise, however, that the restrained beauty of this jewellery is often invested with an unmistakable message: After the Iraqi press portrayed her as a she met with Iraqi officials. During the difficult Middle East peace talks, a dove of peace adorned her shoulder and watched over the proceedings. Mrs Albright employs her diplomacy, a weapon barred to men. 61 artists from 16 countries responded to the challenge suggested by Helen Drutt from Philadelphia, to create highly individual brooches themed with Albright's strategic use of adornment. The results are a glittering show of jewellery covering a wide spectrum of shapes, materials and meaning. Each artist interpreted the challenge in a different way. While some boldly emphasized thier political meassage, others choose a more oblique presentation.

A fascinating survey into Buccellati style: a blend of past with present, of form, function and design lie at the heart of the work of a family firm which has become synonymous with gold and silversmithing over the past century. The exhibition (October 2000 - February 2001), held at the prestigious Smithsonian Institution, National Museum of Natural History, in Washington D.C., showcases over fifty masterpieces (objets d’art, jewels and silver objects) characterized by their elegant design, extraordinary craftmanship and luxury materials (gems and precious metals). A blend of past with present, of form, function and design lie at the heart of the work of a family firm which has become synonymous with gold and silversmithing over the past century.

Bulgari is a lavishly illustrated exploration of Italy's greatest jeweler. Since its beginnings in Rome in 1881 - and throughout its years of expansion throughout the world - the Bulgari firm has been at the forefront of jewelry design, launching many trends and revivals. Here, copious photographs and archival pictures trace the development of the Bulgari style, a distinctive look that has captivated royalty, movie stars and others for more than a century.

The book showcases a range of Bulgari's stunning innovations, such as its easy-to-wear everyday jewels made with precious gems, the powerful modular units combined in repeating patterns, its trademark watches and unique Vintage Collection, a private cache of Bulgari period jewels, watches and objets d'art. It also describes the creative inspiration that led the firm to its famous juxtaposition of unusual materials, from mixing colourful semiprecious stones with priceless diamonds and mounting ancient coins in gold jewelry to incorporating substances - such as steel and white porcelain - that had never before been used in couture jewelry. These and other fashions have sparked countless imitations by other jewelers, copies that can never rival the glamour and flair of the Bulgari originals.

This elegant volume will delight anyone in the field of fashion and jewelry design, as well as the many enthusiastic collectors of Bulgari jewels.

A dazzlingly illustrated history of Bulgari jewelry, this engaging book tells the story of the world’s most famous family of jewelers, goldsmiths, and silversmiths, and the pieces that made their name.

New photography and archival pictures trace the progression of the Bulgari style, a distinctive look that has captivated royalty and movie stars, among other celebrities, for more than a century. Since its start in Rome in 1884 - and throughout the years of expansion when shops opened from Los Angeles to New York and Madrid to Hong Kong - the Bulgari firm has launched influential trends and revivals in jewelry design. Bulgari is famous for the mixing of colorful semiprecious stones with diamonds, the mounting of ancient coins in gold jewelry, and the creation of easy-to-wear everyday pieces made with precious gems. These and other Bulgari fashions have sparked countless imitations by other jewelers, imitations that can never rival the polish and flair of the original pieces.

Initially published in 1996 as the first-ever book on Bulgari, this elegant volume delighted Bulgari enthusiasts and those interested in fashion and jewelry design. The need for an updated history of Italy’s most renowned jeweler was prompted by newly discovered historical material, recently launched Bulgari collections, and a great demand for the book.

This revised edition, featuring several new chapters, presents the achievements and developments of Bulgari in the past decade, including design trends in jewelry and watches. Here also are new lines of luxury fashion accessories as well as the distinctive architecture and interior design of Bulgari stores and hotels. It is these latest accomplishments, exquisitely portrayed in this new edition, which have made Bulgari one of the most important luxury brands of the new millennium.

Beautifully designed and illustrated, this book is an all-access pass inside the story of the world's most famous family of jewellers. A kaleidoscopic, colourful, dazzlingly illustrated history of Bvlgari jewellery, this engaging book showcases more than 300 objects from the late 19th century to the present days. It is the catalogue of a major travelling exhibition.

The exhibition will start in Rome in 2009 to mark Bvlgari's 125th anniversary and will travel to the main capitals of the world through 2012. The aim of the exhibition and its catalogue is to illustrate Bvlgari's achievements in the world of jewellery and design but also to highlight its unique heritage which has its roots in Classical Greek Antiquity, Ancient Rome, Italian Renaissance and Roman Baroque.

Entertaining and didactical at the same time, this book is the essential complement to any jewellery lovers collection.

About Bvlgari

For over a century, since 1884 Bvlgari has been setting the pace for Italian style in jewellery. A forward-looking, creative spirit which never ceases to draw inspiration from the timeless beauty of Greek and Roman art, while giving it a distinctive contemporary touch. Greek like its founder, Sotirio Bvlgari - and Roman like the culture he embraced.

Rome, Via Condotti: the first store. A meeting place for the aristocracy and the world of culture and cinema. Dolce Vita and Hollywood.

Pure luxury obtained by means of daring combinations, precious materials, purity of design and meticulous attention to detail. In Rome, Paris, London, New York and Los Angeles, as well as in Tokyo and Dubai, Bvlgari is the word for jewellery, excellence and prestige. This is the finest expression for style and beauty.

This is the authenticated story of Cartier as it has never been told before

In the 1980s Hans Nadelhoffer was granted exclusive access to the Cartier archives, including previously unpublished photographs and designs, to write the history of the Cartier empire.

For over a century, Cartier has been synonymous with the finest and most exclusive jewelry in the world. The enduring hallmarks have always been top-quality gems, imaginative and distinctive designs, and the most exquisite workmanship. For tsars and maharajas, European royalty and American super-millionaires, Cartier has been the recognized purveyor of luxury, the epitome of glittering opulence.

In this new edition, the book, now printed throughout in colour, has been completely redesigned, and many new colour illustrations have been added. Further discoveries made since the original volume was published have been incorporated in the text.

The career of the house of Cartier is traced from its modest beginnings in Paris to its eventual predominance over the world of fashion. With stories as well as technical and documentary material, this sumptuous book shows how Cartier has set stylistic modes and standards throughout its years of overwhelming success and gives full credit to the little-known individuals who helped to bring this about.

The glory of classic Cartier jewelry is exhibited through fifty years worth of designs shown in this exhibition catalog. It shows how surprising the First Cartiers were, in two clear ways: first, art nouveau elements are almost totally absent. Instead there is a singular reinterpretation of the neoclassical vocabulary: floral motifs, acanthus scrolls, and garlands or drops. Care for detail in these architectural motifs–often in three dimensions–is paramount. At the same time, Cartier introduced the use of platinum for the mounts. This metal was more solid and more luminous but also harder to work. It required a revolution in setting techniques as well as new tools and underlying techniques. Layer by layer, these foundation designs raised Cartier to the position of visionary and pioneer.Specialists, collectors, fans of Cartier objects, and those who love decorative arts will discover a surprising new view of Cartier in this major catalog.

The dazzling Collection Art de Cartier will once again amaze the public with their impressive pieces this time seen through the revolutionary eyes of the master of Italian design, Ettore Sottsass. Richly illustrated, this catalogue accompanies an international jewelry exhibition. Ettore Sottsass presents the Collection Art de Cartier in a brilliant new manner, viewing the collection as a reflection of form and design, while understanding its function and relation with the surrounding space and the bodies it adorns. For this impressive project Ettore Sottsass has selected over 350 jewels, watches and accessories following his personal and intuitive taste forgoing epochs and fashion trends, and creates and highlights the ties amongst the materials, style and colour. To emphasize his vision, for each piece Sottsass creates a decorative element meant to contain the object as a shrine located in a cosmic space.

Cartier epitomizes creativity and individuality in jewelry design. The 175 objects featured in this book exemplify Cartier’s inimitable talent and represent milestones in twentieth-century design.

These archetypes of excellence are important benchmarks in the history of world jewelry, and their relevance continues into the twenty-first century. The jeweled objects in this book are reproduced at actual size, and are accompanied by illustrations and detailed descriptions from Cartier’s vast archives in London, New York, and Paris. Six essays cover a broad range of topics from Cartier’s colorful history, including the influence of the Ballets Russes on Cartier’s forward-looking designs of 1910, the jeweler’s extraordinary technical and design prowess, and the important clients and collectors who wore Cartier’s most exquisite creations. This book features ingenious pieces that reveal how Cartier — by setting new aesthetic, ornamental, technical, and stylistic trends — is a pioneer in the field of jewelry design.

This catalog is an important reference for collectors, and includes previously unpublished photographs.

About the Authors:

Francois Chaille is passionate about art history, fashion, jewelry, and watchmaking. He has collaborated with Flammarion to publish over fifteen books on these subjects.