Книги по дизайну ювелирных изделий

The exquisite objects created by goldsmith and jeweler Peter Carl Fabergé and his studio in the late 19th and early 20th centuries for the aristocracy and nobility of imperial Russia are considered to be some of the most refined examples of the jeweler's art of any age. Of greatest fascination are the extraordinary Easter eggs created as special commissions for the Russian imperial family and other notable patrons - works that remain unparalleled in their ingenuity of construction and sheer beauty.

Accompanying a major exhibition Faberge Revealed represents a landmark for the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts and for Fabergé scholarship. The essays by Géza von Habsburg and other scholars present new findings on Fabergé, his workshops, and the creation of these extraordinary objects. For the first time all items by or attributed to Fabergé in VMFA's collection are documented along with the museum's significant holdings of other Russian decorative arts. Also included is a section on forgeries that bravely confronts this vexing question. Every object has been splendidly re-photographed for this book - and the detailed photography alone should provide inestimable value for future Fabergé scholarship.

Richly illustrated with some 600 photographs, the volume documents an important collection bequeathed in 1947 to the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts by Lillian Thomas Pratt, of Fredericksburg, Va., the wife of General Motors executive John Lee Pratt. Her collection, assembled between 1933 and 1946, comprised several hundred creations by the Faberge workshops and by other Russian imperial jewelers. These exquisite, marvelously crafted objects, range from the majestic jeweled imperial eggs to delicate jeweled flowers in vases to diamond-encrusted icons and tiaras, to animal figures nimbly carved from precious stone.

Contents:
Introduction by Géza von Habsburg
Chapter 1: The House of Fabergé/by Géza von Habsburg
Chapter 2: Behind the Scenes at Fabergé: The St. Petersburg Workshops/ by Ulla Tillander-Godenhieim
Chapter 3: Fabergé and His Russian Competitors/ by Géza von Habsburg
Chapter 4: Fabergé and His Foreign Competitors
Chapter 5: Mrs. Pratt's Imperial Easter Eggs / by Carol Aiken
Chapter 6: The Zarnitza Sailor and His Place in History / by Christel Ludewig McCaniess
Chapter 7: Fabergé and Grand Duchess Vladimir / by Alexander von Solodkoff
Chapter 8: Lillian Thomas Pratt and A La Vieille Russie: A Personal Relationship/ by Mark Schaffer
Chapter 9: Fauxbergé / by Géza von Habsburg
Catalogue: Fabergé/Other Makers/Forgeries

About the Author:

Géza von Habsburg is an internationally known author and authority on Faberge who has served as curator and organizer for a number of Fabergé exhibitions in the United States and abroad, among them Fabergé, Jeweler to the Tsars (1986-87) at Kunsthalle der Hypo-Kulturstiftung in Munich, Germany, and Fabergé in America, which was shown at VMFA and 4 other U.S. venues (1996-97), and Faberge, Imperial Court Jeweler, which was shown in St. Petersburg, Paris, and London (1993-94). He has written or co-written 9 books on Faberge and related topics. Von Habsburg is the grandson of King Frederick Augustus III of Saxony and great-great-grandson of Emperor Franz-Joseph of Austria. He is currently the curatorial director of the London-based Fabergé Company.

This is a book to be cherished by everyone with an interest in society, collecting and the very best of jewelry art. The authors, both international jewelry experts, not only offer a rare opportunity to view a fabulous treasure trove of jewels, but also reveal the stories behind the jewels and their collectors.

For many centuries the collecting of precious gems and the jewelry fashioned from them was the exclusive prerogative of kings and queens, emperors, popes and maharajahs. But in the last hundred years movie goddesses, opera singers, industrialists and rock stars have joined those with the means to deck themselves in glittering bracelets, necklaces and earrings.

Most of what we know about the jewelry collections of recent times has been revealed through the auctions that have taken place after the collectors’ deaths. The famous sale of 1987 uncovered the full extent of the dazzling designs which belonged to the Duchess of Windsor. By the same token, as this book so handsomely shows, the collections of such society women as Daisy Fellowes, Mona Bismarck and Barbara Hutton can now be appreciated and described in detail. And among the royals and aristocrats are HRH the Princess Royal (Princess Mary) of Great Britain and the noble German family of Thurn und Taxis; from the world of film and entertainment stars like Merle Oberon, Joan Crawford and Ava Gardner.

In this lavishly illustrated book, a renowned editor at British Vogue examines the links between fashion and jewelry.

For as long as we’ve been dressing, we’ve been adorning ourselves with embellishments for ears, hands, wrists, waist and fingers. And as fashion trends evolve, so do trends in jewellery. Here, jewellery expert, Carol Woolton demonstrates how the worlds of fashion and jewellery have become increasingly integrated over the last century. From the corset-bound silhouettes of the turn of the century, with their elegant drop earrings and delicate chokers, to the free-flowing kaftans of the 1970s, adorned with chunky, earthy bangles and beads - major trends and designers are featured in double-page spreads that offer endlessly fascinating and informative texts and illustrations. Profiles of icons from Coco Chanel and Harry Winston to Princess Diana and Michelle Obama reveal the interplay of personality and history in the world of fashion. And as jewellery from Chanel, Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels and others was shown for the first time alongside haute couture in this year’s Paris Fashion Week, Woolton explores how brands have made the most of this trend. Gorgeous photography from the archives of Condé Nast, Sotheby’s, and many fine jewellers bring precious metal and twinkling gems to glorious life on the pages of this book.

Created with the catwalk and couture in mind, fashion jewellery is characterized by its creativity and originality. It is one of the most exciting fields in fashion today.

Arranged by designer, this compact edition showcases contemporary catwalk and couture jewellery, profiling 33 international fashion jewellers who combine traditional and ultra-modern techniques in their designs. The stunning images in the book feature collaborations with leading fashion designers such as Lanvin, Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen and Comme des Garçons, as well as collections for directional fashion stores such as Colette and 10 Corso Como.

Fashion Jewellery provides inspiration for designers, jewellers and students of fashion, offering a unique insight into the working methods of a new generation of jewellers. Showcasing skilled craftsmanship, unusual materials and an often limited-edition approach, this beautifully illustrated book harnesses the spirit of couture for the 21st century.

About the Author:

Since graduating from Central Saint Martins, freelance writer and editor Maia Adams has contributed fashion and lifestyle articles to publications including British Vogue, Elle, The Guardian, The Sunday Times Travel Magazine and Wallpaper*. Based in London, Maia is also a visiting lecturer on the fashion degree courses at Barcelona’s Design Institute and the University of the Creative Arts in the UK.

Recognized as one of the world’s foremost collections, Barbara Berger’s costume jewelry portfolio features many of what are considered the twentieth century’s most significant designs.

Fashion Jewelry: The Collection of Barbara Berger highlights over 200 beautiful and noteworthy examples from her more than 4,000 pieces. From legendary couturiers such as Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Valentino to contemporary designers including Daniel Von Weinberger, Iradj Moini, and Kenneth Jay Lane, this title presents the jewelry of over 60 designers, many of whom are among the industry’s most revered names. Published in conjunction with the Museum of Arts & Design’s Bedazzled exhibition, this book is the first definitive title on Barbara Berger’s costume jewelry anthology to date.

With original photography and an informative text written by leading expert Harrice Simons Miller, Fashion Jewelry: The Collection of Barbara Berger is the ultimate accessory for jewelry aficionados and fashionistas alike.

Gijs Bakker (b. 1942), Dutch jewellery and product designer, has figured prominently in the front rank of international auteur jewellery for forty years. He has been setting trends in both form and design since the 1960s. Unsurprisingly, what is known as the ‘Dutch soft style’ has been an international hit. Collaborating with his former wife, Emmy van Leersum, he advocated the status of designer jewellery as autonomous works of art.

The present publication, which includes a detailed description of all his pieces, represents a complete annotated catalogue of Gijs Bakker’s œuvre. In this sumptuously illustrated book, the historian Ida van Zijl takes us through Gijs Bakker’s work, showing his importance for the development of jewellery worldwide.

The complete annotated catalogue of jewellery by the internationally renowned Dutch jewellery and product designer Gijs Bakker.

Creative jewelry design beyond luxury and pomp.

Contemporary jewelry has been vitalized by a recent burst of innovative concepts, materials, and designers. A Girl’s Best Friends is a compilation of the most creative pieces by outstanding jewelry designers from around the world.

The book features styles from glamorous to minimalistic, forms from geometric to organic, and materials from gold and silver to plastics and feathers. It includes work ranging from new interpretations of necklaces, rings, bracelets, earrings, and brooches to more experimental forms of body decoration.

More About This Book

Today, jewelry — whether glamorous, gothic, or minimalist — is en vogue. Jewelry goes back centuries and has been on the forefront of design many times throughout history. Now, thanks to a burst of innovative concepts, materials, and designers, a new age of contemporary jewelry has begun. A Girl’s Best Friends is an eclectic collection of work from around the world that documents this current development.

Today, jewelry exists in a wide spectrum of forms from traditional to modern, from geometric to organic. It is inspired by elements of folklore and the composition of collage. The materials used include gold, silver, and gemstones as well as plastics, porcelain, leather, wood, feathers, and hair. These are being used to create not only necklaces, rings, bracelets, earrings, and brooches, but also more experimental forms of decoration that expand the human body.

A Girl’s Best Friends features work by outstanding jewelry designers including Ted Noten, Saskia Diez, byAMT, and Kelsey Quan; fashion labels such as Bless; creatives working with cutting-edge technologies such as Nervous System; and a range of innovative designers from other disciplines.

In short, A Girl’s Best Friends is the most comprehensive showcase of the innovative jewelry being created today.

This is a reference guide to the equipment, materials and techniques that can be used when making jewellery. It is aimed at the beginner but it would also be suitable for the more experienced jeweller. It shows in step-by-step sequences how to accomplish various techniques. It also explains the pros and cons of different materials and finishes and how to achieve them.

A look through the sparkling history of Harry Winston, "King of Diamonds"

From the legacy of the Hope Diamond to "Diamonds are a Girl’s Best Friend", and from runways and red carpets to presidential inaugural balls, Harry Winston jewels are icons of international glamour. Harry Winston opened his doors in New York in 1932 and soon rose to the top of the international diamond industry. Winston revolutionized modern jewelry design by buying great collections of estate jewels and transforming precious stones into jewelry pieces that appealed to contemporary customers. This book showcases Winston’s most exquisite jewels and jewelry in captivating advertising campaigns, historic images, and celebrity photos, as well as showing the important stones with which the company has worked, including the Hope, Lesotho, and Vargas diamonds. Featuring archival and contemporary jewels and watches - displayed on beauties such as Elizabeth Taylor, Gwyneth Paltrow, Halle Berry and, of course, Marilyn Monroe - this book offers an incredible look at some of the most breathtaking jewel creations and timepieces in history.

About the Author:

Harry Winston is America’s premier diamond specialist. Founded by Harry Winston in 1932, the company is a favorite of royalty and celebrities, and its designs are frequently seen on red carpets all over the globe. Harry Winston has salons in international cosmopolitan locations, including New York, Los Angeles, London, and Hong Kong. André Leon Talley is a contributing editor to Vogue, where he writes the monthly column "Life with André."

The jewellery firm Süddeutsche Gold- und Haar-Bijouterie, founded in 1907 by Heinrich Henkel and Florentin Grosse, experienced its first successes with costume jewellery made of bronze, aluminium, wood, bakelite and galalite. Renamed Henkel & Grosse, the firm soon established its first business contacts to the US. In the early 1930s it began working with the fashion labels Lanvin and Schiaparelli in Paris as well as with Harrods in London and Saks in New York. The company was awarded the diplome d’honneur for their designs in 1937 at the “Exposition Internationale des Arts et Techniques dans la vie Moderne” in Paris. Since 1955 Henkel & Grosse worked together with Christian Dior and for fifty years held a license to produce and distribute Dior jewellery worldwide.

With regard to Henkel & Grosse’s own jewellery lines, the firm always maintained its independence, thereby setting their own creations apart from Dior jewellery. For example, the line Grosse Bijoux, which was expanded in the 1960s to include the collections Grosse Sterling und Grosse Gold – with fashion always dictating their design. The enterprise, led by four generations of the Grosse family, had at its zenith over 600 employees and a worldwide distribution. Dior and Grosse costume jewellery was designed in Pforzheim. Produced in Pforzheim and in the US, later also in Asia, it stood for modern design and technical innovation. In 2005 the family withdrew from the business and the firm became part of the Dior group.

The first comprehensive monograph on Henkel & Grosse with numerous illustrations of jewellery from Grosse and Dior. Its exciting history is portrayed against the backdrop of the fashion created by the great couture designers of the twentieth century.

Illustrations: 198 col

This lavishly illustrated book presents outstanding examples of one-of-a kind jewellery from the 1940s to the present drawn from the collection of the Museum of Arts & Design in New York. The 288 pages guide the reader through a fascinating diversity of materials, technique and approaches that make contemporary jewellery visually exciting and intellectually stimulating. No longer dependent on gold and gemstones, these creations demonstrate that commonplace aluminium, rubber, glass, paper, thumbtacks, and even salvaged gun triggers can be made into dazzling jewellery.

The international nature of today's jewellery is fully represented with established luminaries as well as emerging artists in the field from the United States, Europe, Asia and Australia including Gijs Bakker, Robert Ebendorf, Hermann Jünger, Sam Kramer, Otto Künzli, Linda MacNeil, Margaret DePatta, Bruno Martinazzi, Giò Pomodoro, Wendy Ramshaw, Art Smith, Kiff Slemmons, David Watkins, and Anna Maria Zanella.

The book contains a foreword by Holly Hotchner, Director of the Museum of Arts & Design; essay by Ursula Ilse-Neuman, Jewellery Curator of the Museum of Arts & Design, surveying major trends in contemporary jewellery over the past 75 years; and over 200 full-colour illustrations of works from the Museum's Permanent Collection.

Ursula Ilse-Neuman is Jewellery Curator at the Museum of Arts & Design, New York. She joined the Museum in 1992 and has curated numerous exhibitions in all media. Ms. Ilse-Neuman is the author of numerous publications and has juried many competitions and lectured widely both in the United States and abroad. She is currently a Ph.D. candidate at the Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design, and Culture. She is a member of the Editorial Board of Directors of Metalsmith magazine.

Drawing is an essential part of any creative process and it remains the most efficient tool for communicating a concept or an image. This book features a varied selection of the work of leading jewellery designers, as revealed through their original illustrations and working drawings, plus colour photographs of the finished pieces

Jewellery sets off beauty and reveals wealth. Moreover, jewellery had a magical function in traditional societies because it attracted blessings and warded off evil. Women were given most of their jewellery when they married. They wore it until their children had grown up. Then it was kept until their daughters had need of its magical properties. So Oriental vernacular jewellery was handed down from generation to generation. If a piece was too worn, it was melted down and the silver used to recreate a piece of the same type. Thus the memories of millennia were preserved in jewellery of this kind.

It came to a break in the mid-20th century. In many parts of the Near East, the traditional silver jewellery began to be replaced by gold jewellery that was often industrially manufactured. The upshot was that much of what makes this collection so unusual has been irredeemably lost in the countries where the jewellery was once made. It is to the everlasting credit of Dr. Bir as a collector that these pieces have survived, albeit far from the lands where they were made, to attest to the infinite variety and beauty of Oriental craftsmanship. In this book, readers follow the jewellery on an imaginary journey: from Turkey and “oriental Europe” across the Mediterranean to north-western Africa and the Sahara to Ethiopia. From there the journey continues through Yemen via India and on to Thailand and the Roof of the World. Down the Indus Valley to Afghanistan. Back again through the mountains and across Central Asia on the Silk Road to the West. From Turkmenistan to the Caspian Sea and from there to the Caucasus. Through eastern Turkey, Syria and Palestine back to the Mediterranean. Born in Freiburg i. Breisgau in 1929, the collector Ümit Bir was the son of a Turkish physician and a native of Freiburg. He grew up in Izmir. After studying medicine in Istanbul, he trained as a specialist in Berlin and worked in Wolfsburg from 1958. His passion for collecting began in 1960 on a trip through north-east Africa. One hundred and eighty more trips throughout the Near East would follow.

The Dr. Bir Collection comprising more than 3,000 pieces of jewellery is on loan to the Museum für Völkerkunde Leipzig. It is one of the largest private collections of oriental jewellery in existence. A selection of pieces from it are published here for the first time.

This book rewrites the history of jewellery in the age of Victoria. The ‘age of Victoria’ is taken in its widest sense to encompass jewellery made throughout Europe and America, displayed at the great international exhibitions and distributed through foreign trade, illustrated publications and a burgeoning tourist industry. Throughout, links with other disciplines will provide both the specialist and the non- specialist with the information to understand how jewellery permeated all walks and conditions of life in the 19th century.

The focus of the book is on the attitudes of owners to their jewellery and the symbolic weight that it was expected to carry. Rather than concentrating on the major figures at the top end of the jewellery trade, it is oriented towards the social aspects of owning, wearing and displaying jewellery. For example, novelists used jewellery to add a moral or metaphorical dimension to a character, while jewels depicted in portraits often carried multiple messages which could be immediately decoded by the viewer. The achievements of science, the fascination with nature and the Victorian sense of humour are all embodied in jewellery. Topics discussed in depth include the importance of jewellery in the life of the Queen herself, jewellery and dress, the language of jewellery, the cult of novelty, the importance of nationalism in the revival of historical styles, and the contribution of archaeological discoveries. The volume is sumptuously illustrated with contemporary reportage, photographs and portraits as well as examples of jewellery from the British Museum and other collections.

She was a creature of contrasts: there was the Chanel of rococo mirrors and playful jewellery; but also the Chanel of the tailored suit, of the utmost restraint; of classicism à la française.
The jewellery that Chanel created presents one of the least-known aspects of her work: in complement to her ‘costume jewellery’, she invented jewellery that was unparalleled in luxury and refinement and unfettered in its imagination.

Using illustrations and documents, many of them previously unpublished, and based on archival research and interviews with Chanel’s colleagues and other witnesses of her life and career, this book presents her passion for fabulous jewels and improbable marvels.